Iran: Day 4

12/02/2012

Today was another fun filled day!  I asked to see old pictures of Mohammad and Madar-joon and Vahid brought out tons and tons of albums for me to look through.  When Baba got home he sat and looked at some of the photos with me and he just kept smiling.  At one point Baba looked at me and smiled, then put his arm around me and said, "Madar-joon and I are old now, but you and Mohammad are so young!"  Baba and I found some photos of the family at the Caspian and he started telling me about this one time Madar-joon and Baba took the boys to the sea and they kept swimming so so far away.  Baba and Madar-joon were scared and kept telling them to come closer, but the boys just kept swimming.  Madar-joon said they almost gave her a heart-attack!  Once Vahid returned from work he looked through the pictures with me too!  Then a few relatives came over to say hi.  We had a great time!  BTW - In Iran you MUST have sweets, tea, and fruit every time someone comes over.  This is a requirement!  So, basically, we all eat all day long...  Later we all went to Hamed and my sister-in-law's house for dinner.  Their apartment is so nice!  They have decorated it really beautifully!  My sister-in-law made us soo much delicious food!  We couldn't even eat it all.

Vahid and Mohammad at Persepolis when they were younger

Madar-joon, Mohammad, Vahid, and Hamed.
Look how skinny Mohammad was!

Mohammad and his uncle.  Mohammad had so much hair!

Mohammad, the day he was born!  So much hair!

Baby Mohammad and Hamed.
Mohammad has such large eyes!

Baba-jan when he was younger!

Madar-joon when she was younger!

Mohammad and his cousin

The family, cousins, and grandmother

Hamed and Baba on the balcony at Hamed's apartment

Madar-joon and Baba-jan picking out flowers.  The flower shops in Iran are the best!  Each shop has hundreds of flowers and a specific way of arranging the flowers.  Some people will drive all the way across town to go to their favorite florist.  I really wish we had flower shops like these in the U.S.!

The amazing chandelier at Hamed's apartment!  Home decor is a bit different in Iran.
Most people love lavish styles and antiques.

The view from the roof top of Hamed's apartment

Another view of the roof top... did you know satellites are illegal in Iran?

My sister-in-law's amazing dinner!

A special visit from some special people!  Notice the fruit and sweets on the table... 

One of my many translators :)

Iran: Day 3

12/01/2012

Today was a great day!  My cousin and I walked to two malls (very similar to American malls, except the stores are smaller and much more specialized and there are no department stores).  Also, beware if you are buying name brands in Iran.  Although the store sign says Louis Vuitton and they're charging an arm and a leg for the cute bag you like, it's highly unlikely that the purses in the store are actually Louis Vuitton (same goes for any other name brand... they're all highly suspicious).  The boys were interesting... I heard a lot of MashAllahs (thank God, used for a gift from God i.e. good looks) as we were walking around. 

Later Mohammad's family and I traveled to Bafru (a smaller town 45 mins outside of Yazd). First we went to Madar Bazorg's house (Mohammad's Father's Mother's house) and then to Agha's house (Mohammad's Mother's Father's house).  I met so many people it was hard to remember all of their names!  Yazd is a very conservative city, but Bafru is even more conservative.  Almost every woman (maybe 99%) wears a chador (an all black long coat/dress that covers everything but a woman's hands, face, and feet).  Madar bazorg is a SUPER loving and sweet woman!  I love her so much!  And Agha seems a bit formal and serious at first, but then he opens up and is quite playful especially around children!  At Agha's house one of our Uncles made fresh pomegranate juice for me by compressing the pomegranate in his hand! 

I was given many gifts and one of my favorites are the goli narges (Narcissus/daffodil flowers) from Agha's baq which smell so good (I saved some to bring home and they still smell wonderful to this day!).  After the formal meetings we headed to an Uncle's house for dinner and I met even more relatives!  Another interesting note... there is no such thing as casual clothes in Iran!  Every male wears a suit or slacks and button up unless they are on their way to bed!

On the drive to Bafru we pass by these illuminated street lights.
LED lights have arrived in Iran and the Iranian's LOVE them!
Almost every major street in every city (big or small) has some sort of decorative lights.

Madar Bazorg and Me!  Can't you just tell we love one another?

The baby!  He did not want to go to anyone but his Baba!  BTW - that is a cucumber on the bottom right.  Cucumbers are eaten just like any fruit in Iran.  It's like having an apple in the U.S.  They just slice them and eat them right up!

Most of the welcoming crew!
(women to the left are wearing chador)

Madar-joon, Mohammad's Father's Mother, Me, and Baba-jan!
Baba looks a lot like his mother!

Agha's house.  And the infamous pomegranates and abi anar maker!

Goli Narges from Agha

A few of us at dinner.  Agha insisted we sit next to each other
and he made sure I was the first to be served (yes, I was treated like a princess).

Agha, Baba, and Uncle looking at old photos

The kiddos!  The little boy was just too cute!

He loves me!

Iran: Day 2

11/30/2012

Today we woke up early and left for Baba-jan's baq in Tezerjan (baq = plot of land usually used as a weekend house w/large garden or mid sized orchard)!  On the way to Tezerjan we passed the largest dakhma (tower of silence).  Dakhma is a place that was once used by Zoroastrians to dispose of their dead (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dakhma).

 Tezerjan is very beautiful!  Mountains surround the Baq and it often snows during winter.  Baba-jan's baq is very new, but some turnips, beets, and carrots were already mature and ready for harvesting.  After picking some havich (carrots) and eating a few, we climbed up to the roof of Baba's baq by going up some scary bricks used as steps.  Vahid had to come down and help me up while Baba-jan held the bricks in place!  Once I was brave enough to climb down (and after seriously considering just jumping to the ground) we headed to Deh Bala (another mountain village) to visit our Aunt and Uncle's baq.

First Vahid surprised me by taking us to the top of the mountain to play in the barf (he knows I love barf (snow))!  Mountains in Iran are a bit different than mountains in the U.S.  The Irani mountains tend to be very pointy with sharp & jagged ridges.  This is also where I had my first Arab toilet adventure... not a fan!  Let's just say Iranians must be born with much better balance than Americans!

 Dakhma (tower of silence) on the outskirts of Yazd

 Our first glimpse of the snowy ridges just 30 mins outside of Yazd

 In Tezerjan near Baba-jan's baq

 My awesome brother-in-law, Vahid, harvesting some turnips at the baq

Madar-joon and Baba-jan harvesting havich (carrots)

 On the roof with Baba-jan, Barf Khane (house of snow mountain) in the background 

Vahid and I on the roof with a great view of the baq and Tezerjan 

Our bountiful harvest 

Madar-jan and I at the top of Deh Bala mountain village with Shir Kooh (lion mountain) in the background 

 Me and Shir Kooh

 Can you find Baba-jan?  He's looking over Tezerjan to spot his baq

Me, Madar-joon, and Vahid at the top! 

Our Aunt and Uncle's baq 

My sweet Cousin and I keeping warm by the fire.  Can you spot the samovar?  

These are traditional giant kettles that are kept on all day so that chi (tea) is always ready! 

All of us for dinner!  After playing cards and chatting.

Dinner #2, in Iran, we eat A LOT!

Iran: Day 1.5

Once we finally arrived at the Tabatabaei house, we were all exhausted!  Mohammad's sweet sweet Aunt greeted us the traditional way (with Esphand) and we ate a quick breakfast before retiring to bed.  After a short nap my precious and pregnant cousin came to visit with her husband and family and I met Mohammad's older brother, Hamed, and his wife for the first time!  We had a great time!  Houses in Iran are quite different from houses in the U.S.  Typically we enter the house through a medium sized garden and up a few steps to the main door into a large hall which is lined with couches, chairs, and cushions.  Off of the main hall is a smaller hall used for special occasions, a kitchen (similar to European kitchens), and several small doors that lead to bedrooms and bathrooms.  I was fortunate that our house has both a ferangi toilet (western style toilet) and Arab toilet (see picture below).  I will talk more about my Arab toilet adventures in a later posts.

Arab style toilet on left and toilet ferangi on right

A view of the main hall and small hall

Iran: Day 1

I think my journal says it best... "I exited the KNOWN world and entered Iran."

Over the years I have heard so many things about Iran.  So many conflicting ideas and points of view on this country I was about to walk into were running through my head.  When our plane departed from Turkey I was one of three or four hijabis (scarf wearing women) and as the plane landed in Iran, EVERY woman aboard pulled out a scarf and jacket and developed a new personality!  It was a strange experience..  Immediately upon exiting the plane, before I could even enter the airport I had to go through passport control #1.  I handed over my passport and quickly shuffled through the hallway.  

Once inside the airport I was greeted by a much less friendly, non-smiling, passport control agent.  We split up into lines and Baba-jan stood behind me.  As I was called up to the passport control agent and handed over my passport, I started to get a little nervous.  The agent asked me a few questions in Farsi, to which I responded, "No Farsi".  All the other lines were moving, but I was just standing there!  Soon EVERYONE had gone through the lines.  Baba-jan and I were the only two left.  The agent told Baba-jan to go through another line, and I became a little more nervous.  The agent continued to ask me questions in Farsi and I thought, "should I answer back or stick with the no Farsi thing?".  I kept glancing and Baba-jan, who was waiting just on the other side.  The agent noticed me looking at Baba-jan and asked if I knew him.  I said, "Baleh (yes)".  Baba-jan was called over and explained I was his daughter-in-law, and all was well!  The agent said, "No problem," stamped my passport and finally I entered Iran!  

After a few more interesting moments (forgetting the parking pass, no toilet paper in the restroom, people openly saying they don't like the government), we were finally on our way to Yazd!  It was a 7-10hr drive through open space from Tehran to Yazd.  The sun rose as we drove through the desert, and we all were so happy to finally see the gate of Quran (the blessed arch through which travelers pass when leaving the city to ensure safe travels).  

 Sunrise on the way to Yazd

The blessed Darvazeh Quran of Yazd

Iran, ready or not, here I come!

11/28/2012

Today is traveling day!  We all packed the night before and woke up extra early so that Mohammad, Baba-jan, and I could visit Topkapi Palace before we left for the airport.

Entrance to Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace was constructed in 1459 and served as the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans for approximately 400 years.  The above picture is of the empirial gate.  It is inscribed, "By the Grace of God, and by His approval, the foundations of this auspicious castle were laid, and its parts were solidly joined together to strengthen peace and tranquility.  May God make eternal his empire, and exalt his residence above the most lucid stars of the firmament."  Inside, the Palace holds perhaps the largest collection of Islamic artifacts including Prophet Muhammed's (PBUH) cloak and sword.

After our quick tour of Topkapi Palace Baba-jan, Mohammad, and I met Vahid and Madar-joon at our hotel and checked out.  We went to McDonald's for lunch (has to be the nicest McDonald's I have ever seen) and then headed for the airport.

At the airport Mohammad's plane departed a few hours before ours, so Vahid and I walked Mohammad to his departure gate then said our goodbyes.  It's a good thing Vahid was there to walk me back to Baba and Madar-joon!  After a few hours of trying to sleep on airport benches, we finally boarded our plane to Iran!  I felt nervous, excited, and a bit anxious.  I kept watching the flight map and I remember the exact moment we crossed into IranI air space!  We also crossed over Tabriz, the home of some of our dearest friends!

Tabriz from my window seat.  BTW, those white things are not clouds!  There was lots of snow!